Excuse the post of me in the Nikkei but a friend sent me this only this morning and I had no idea that it had even been published. Then again I had been committing idolatry at the Smashing Pumpkins' concert last night. I went with a scowl as it was only after I had purchased the ticket that I realized Billy Corgan-the doyen of beautiful lyrics in rock and hazy guitar that spoke to the darkness in so many of us through the '90's-was on his own. I wanted at the very least Jimmy Chamberlain on the drums. But what a show! I have seen them seven-times now and this was among the greatest shows. The kid on the drums looks about nineteen but can he play! Tonight, Tonight brought a tear as Billy whined 'The resolute urgency of now...tonight...tonight! 'What an honour! Stream of consciousness be gone....and back to the topic of wine-bars!
It is with great reluctance that I go wine-bar hopping in Tokyo. While there are some fabulous places such as Shonzui in Roppongi and Nuits Blanches in Shinbashi to mention a couple, many are tokenist set-ups selling a smattering of exceedingly dull and inexpensive wines that-despite the punctilious attention to storage in Japan that better bottles receive-are often left in warm alcoves as decorations. It was with exuberance and a grin therefore that I threw myself into the lists at two outstanding wine-bars in Mejiro.
The first is located out of the eponymous JR station's only exit and a left-turn away. It is Le Mont-St-Michel (www.creperie-mont-st-michel.com), about 30 metres down the street on the left-hand side. The first floor is a creperie while the second houses a slick little wine-bar with yes, a holy grail of not the merely drinkable, but wines that make one giddy in the acknowledgment that good wine can be sold even in perpetually recessed Japan as long as there are staff with brio and passion; an owner with vision and good taste.
In fact, Le Mont-St-Michel is fueled by owner Yves Ringler's love of southern France although the list does not end there. Quality producers' Chignin, Cote de Brouilly and Chinons are poured by the glass to accompany charcuterie, while the leading light of the Loire, Chateau du Hureau Saumur-Champigny, is represented across various cuvees. It is the south though that sparks Yves' zeal and wines from the Languedoc and the Roussillon in particular.
Yves has decided to import a select swag of wines from these regions among which, is the particularly impressive Mas Champart 'Causse de Bousquet' 2007. This is a large-framed wine boasting the ripeness of the south and in particular, of the 2007 vintage. Aromas of fig, damson plum, pepper and briar are focused by a ferruginous energy from schistous terrain. You see, Saint Chinian is very much a tale of the right side and wrong side of the tracks. It is kind of like Chapel Hill North Carolina or any other American town really, except in this case, we are not talking about the difference between affluence and the ghetto, but the palpable juxtaposition between schist and clumsy old water-retaining clay! Champart's propitiously located vineyards-all on the hallowed schist-give the wine an energy that sashays and shimmies enough to negate the cloying warmth and sweet fruit that often mars wines from warm to hot regions. Moreover, there is a dollop of Mourvedre in the blend which provides focusing tannins and a moreish brush of tobacco flavour. Looooong!93
Another wine that Yves imports and sells at the bar is Domaine de la Mas Neuf's la 'Compostelle' 2008, a white wine of distinguished refinement from Costieres de Nimes. The nose is akin to lemon curd and truffle with a cool herbal twist. It is very much natural yeast-driven. The palate is broad with reverberating notes of apple, pear, quince and stone fruits, yet not at all sudsy or too blowsy. The wine has been raised in third-use d'Yquem barrels apparently to give it some lift and tang from residual botrytis. Long and persistent and most importantly, very easy to drink. This is not something that I can often say about wines from these parts which is why they have rose. 91
No comments:
Post a Comment