The Style of Beaucastel

Recently I was fortunate enough to be invited to a tasting of a selection of current releases by Beaucastel in Tokyo.

It is curious to note that while the flash pasteurization system patented by Beaucastel serves to negate oxidase enzymes and other stability issues, extract colour and allow for more sensitive use of SO2, it is the final point, no doubt, together with biodynamic principles applied to vineyard practises, that facilitates an astutely honed, contemporary and fashionable angle when marketing this producer's wines in markets such as Japan, enthralled by the concept of 'natural' wine.

While this pasteurization system did not prevent brettanomyces (well above the perception levels of most drinkers)from appearing in the critically acclaimed `89 Ch. de Beaucastel Rouge (indicating the need for utmost hygiene in the barrel room and within the barrels themselves; and appropriate SO2 levels depending on pH/ripeness levels and residual sugar), it does appear to imbue these wines-at least in their contemporary manifest-with very pure, layered fruit and aromatic intensity. Moreover, these wines see no stems in the cuve which despite the rustic reputation of `89 and other vintages, places them in the modernist camp to a degree. Modest use of new wood however, also allows the style to pay respect to regional tradition.

....and next the wines.