Chateauneuf `98

I remember my sommelier days at New York's Veritas when suddenly, a meager smattering of Chateaneufs on a single page of the wine-list turned into ten-pages. Parker's review had just been published and the region, with the `98 vintage, was turned on its head. Revisiting some of the big names made for an interesting evening and a sore head-exacerbated by Australia's meek performance against a German juggernaut in the World Cup-the following morning.

Vieux Telegraphe 'la Crau' 1998: while a friend informed me that Vieux Telegraphe was one of the first Chateauneuf properties to install stainless steel tanks, I had the impression that the wines were of a somewhat rustic, traditional idiom. Perhaps it is because of the relatively large percentage of Mourvedre in the blend giving a carnal meatiness to the wines and less than finely hewn tannins. Notes of scrub, olive and coffee bean led to a rather rustic palate-shape that I thought would open and offer some pleasure. While I returned to the wine an hour or more after the first taste, it had failed to live up to my expectations and remained a bit scrawny and hollow with modest length 87

Domaine Charvin 1998: scented aromas of southern France in all its glory-lavender, thyme, rosemary. Rich and expansive on the palate with firm tannins giving balance from whole clusters/non-destemming as is the way at this property. Moreish, layered and long with real verve. However, a slight menthol note gave the impression that over such a warm year as `98 when grape sugars outpaced phenolic ripeness, there were less than ideally ripe stems in the mix. This detracted from overall poise and pleasure 93

les Cailloux 1998: coffee, chocolate and warm earth with less of a herbal spectrum and more obvious surmatur prune and Christmas cake-aromas. The palate is broad and expansive; thick and concentrated; yet not at all over-extracted. Almost mellifluous in a hedonistic way due to balancing acidity. Rich and easy. Superbly concentrated and still very much alive as opposed to the decomposing V. Telegraphe. However lacking the layers and intrigue of great wine. 91

Domaine du Caillou: lifted aromas of lilac, violet and some garrigue-almost Northern Rhone in the sense of its perfume although packed with the dense sweetness of Grenache and the warmth of the southern sun. The most elegant wine thus far. No rough edges yet still interesting with a round, densely concentrated palate of multitudinous layers balanced by bright acidity and fine grained tannins. Impeccably rendered and delicious. 95-96

A wine that was served blind to round out the `98 theme was Chateau de Saint Cosme Gigondas: piercing acidity was my first impression aside from the nose which, dichotomously, offered the brick-earth-warmth and briar of the south, with a hint of tomato and mulch suggesting age. The wine was a year or two past its optimal drinking window, yet still offered charm, modest length and complexity. The acidity hailed from the high vineyards in Gigondas abutting the crest of the Dentelles de Montmirail. There you go! Not a bad evening despite the discouraging loss to Germany. 85