Beaucastel Continued

Beaucastel is imported by Jeroboam in Japan.

The wines tasted in order:

1. Ch. de Beaucastel Blanc 2007-aromas of white flower, marzipan and lemon oil as warms in glass. Creamy and expansive in mouth due to judicious meld of phenolics, reductive lees work and minerality, and Roussane-driven acidity. Long and streamlined. 91

2. Perrin Reserve Rouge 2007-Blueberry and violet scent akin to a Syrah-like expression of Grenache. However the warmth of the sun is apparent in the mouth with a creamy texture and kirsch-like sweetness. Very ripe yet not at all jammy with soft yet appropriately pronounced tannins for balance. Good drink. 88

3. Cairanne Peyre Blanche 2007-Greater concentration of aroma-briar, smoked meat and bon bons-with a more dark fruited backdrop, echoed on a thick frame exhibiting olive flavours and some Mediterranean scrub. However, as with all wines from this domain, the emphasis is on clarity of fruit punctuated by brushy tannins. 89

4. Gigondas la Gille 2007-In stark contrast to the Cairanne, the nose is much cooler and floral. I went from the former glass to the Gigondas glass, pondering this expression. Clearly the Gigondas hails from higher ground with the elevated Dentelles de Montmirail serving as a dramatic vineyard-scape imbued with granite and other meager soils, excellent drainage facility and most importantly, a cooler environment allowing for more attenuated ripening, less bumptious fruit and subsequently, a finer expression of Syrah and its violet scent, while serving as a difficult platform to ripen the tougher Mourvedre, seldom found in Gigondas. And here, perhaps, is where the difference between the Cairanne and the Gigondas lies. The Gigondas shows peet, pepper and orange peel notes, very lifted. The tannins are also more finely grained for form, with juicy expressive acidity for life and line. Quite suave for a southern Rhone wine; finessed even. Despite all of this however, I preferred the Cairanne. I felt the Gigondas could do with a bit more stuffing. 88

5. Ch. de Beaucastel Rouge 2007-'Surmatur' aromas of fig, coffee bean and traditional English Christmas cake yet far less expressive on nose than preceding wines, boding well for the future. Formidably concetrated in mouth-olive, lavendar-with a multiplicity of layers, balancing acidity and extremely fine, tight tannins giving an overall impression of grace and elegance for the idiom. Mellifluous and superb length. 94

6. Hommage a Jacques Perrin 2007-60% Mourvedre. Inky, jet black. Startling colour! Soaring notes of blackberry confiture, meat and char; peaty smoke from sexy oak and olive aromas. Very ripe and concentrated yet bristling with intent in the mouth rather than offering any real complexity at this stage. The wine cometh the nose in time. Portends for a very long future if only I could afford a bottle! Lively and tingly, with superbly rendered tannins. Very long and muscular. 96